Thursday, December 31, 2015
Wednesday, December 30, 2015
Paul Components Klamper mechanical disc brake calipers and Love Levers,
Race Face Turbine Cinch Crank and Bars, Sram GX rear derailleur, Shimano XT front, Sram X7 shifters, ODI Troy Lee Lock On Grips,
Salsa Bearpaw 15 x 150 Thru Axle aluminum fork, salsa stem and a Cane Creek 40 Headset..
...and let's not forget the Gold Surly 100mm Clown Shoe rims on Salsa Fat Conversion Hubs wrapped in Vee Rubber Bulldozer and Snowshoe XL 4.7" tires.
Just add "You, (yeah YOU!)" and some pedals and go out and conquer some snowy trails. Burt Reynolds' style 'stache is optional.
Thursday, December 24, 2015
Tuesday, December 22, 2015
Thanks Aaron and all the great folks at Industry Nine for sending us some holiday cheer......at 9.0 ABV. We will be sure to enjoy this in a responsible fashion.
Monday, December 21, 2015
Watch this sweet Paul Klamper mech caliper and Love Lever turn into a Jet Black Ventana El Gordo fat bike.....stay tuned.
Wednesday, December 16, 2015
Sunday, December 13, 2015
Thursday, December 10, 2015
Tuesday, December 08, 2015
Monday, December 07, 2015
|Ready for assembly|
We will be working with a new Sun Ringle Mule Fut 80SL rim, which is tubeless compatible and a 45NRTH Husker Du 4.0 tire. (Yeah, I know, I'm missing the umlauts in "Fut", "Husker" and "Du.") The rim has a cut out section in the center, like Surly's Holy Rolling Darryl, only square instead of round so we will leave the vinyl strip in place.
The original tube will be set aside as it isn't needed for this conversion but will make a good back up incase you need one out in the wild.
The secret ingredient for this recipe lies in the tube section to make it work. We are using a 24" x 2.4-2.75 Presta tube which has been cut
radially, down the back spine (opposite the valve side) and then splayed open. Kinda like butterflying or spatchcocking a bird.
Now, depending upon how old your tire is, it may gone on easily, or your may have to battle with it a little, especially if it's new.....like our Husker Du. Take your time, use a plastic tire lever if you need. These rims don't have much of a valley in the center section so it doesn't really matter where the first bead is in relation to the rim. Try to keep it in the center as you would with any tire change. Once the first bead is on, make sure the tube is still placed evenly on the rim.
As you work the second bead onto the rim, take care to not gouge/cut/pinch the tube. It can become tight as you work the last section on. Try to pull the loose tube over and outside of the tire as you work the bead in place. Take small sections and work them slowly.
Sometimes is helps to get the inner bead of the tire and tube lubed a bit. We've had good success using Pedro's Bike Lust as a light lubricant to help seat the bead on stubborn tight tires.
|Pedro's Bike Lust|
Next, we added about 8 oz. of Stan's tubeless tire sealant. This amount is a rough guide, you may need a little more or less depending on how the bead/tube/tire is seating. It tends to be less messy having the tire completely on the rim and fill the tire through the valve using a syringe, especially when trying to get the bead on this setup over the rim yet still have the tube flap hanging out.
Blasted the tire with the air chuck to seat the bead. A little popping and hissing was heard while I removed the air chuck and pressed my finger over the open valve stem. I quickly inserted the valve core and tightened it up, then added more air to compensate for what was lost during the valve core install.
I spun the wheel and to get the fluid all throughout the nooks and creavasses, then set it down to let it rest for a few minutes. Once I didn't here any hissing of air escaping, I got a utility knife with a fresh blade and began to trim the excess tube flap that was hanging outside the rim/tire. Using a fresh new blade is key, it doesn't take much pressure to trim the tube. You really need to take your time and go slow so you are only cutting the tube. I laid the knife against the side wall of the rim and used it as a guide keeping it at an angle to lessen the chance of cutting too deep.